It’s starting to get chilly up here in Maine. (Okay, we’ve already had about 8″ of snow…but it’s gone for the time being, so we pretend it didn’t happen at all.) And every visit to the barn has us wondering how well the animals will fare over the winter. Will it be exceptionally cold this year? Or will we get lucky, as we have in the past?  Raising chickens successfully has everything to do with preparation and a full understanding of the problem.

Artificially warming a chicken coop can be expensive and potentially dangerous.

Okay, -20F with blowing snow and gale force winds will probably require some heating intervention. But most people who use heat lamps in the hen house don’t really need to. Any electrical elements inside animal living quarters present some degree of fire hazard, and of course chickens will peck and scratch at anything they can (those cords look an awful lot like tasty worms, you know.)

Often the real danger to your flock isn’t the cold. In fact, many breeds can survive quite well down to zero degrees (F). No, the real problem is humidity. Cold is usually fine, as long as it’s a “Dry Cold.” Birds have been known to get frostbite on combs, legs and waddles around the freezing point when the humidity is too high.

Even if the air outside is dry, it can still be humid inside the coop. All animals put out a lot of moisture just by breathing and pooping. If you have crowded conditions, the moisture problem is magnified. Often people think they should crowd chickens together in a smaller space during the winter to keep them warm, but that only makes things worse. Higher humidity, colder chickens.

You can register humidity with a simple, inexpensive tool called a hygrometer. Commercial chicken houses aim for 50% humidity, but it’s not necessary to be that precise in a backyard chicken coop.

Good ventilation reduces humidity in your chicken coop.

It sounds strange, but opening the vents in your chicken house actually protects your birds better than sealing everything up. Yes, you lose some heat if the windows are open, but you also allow the moisture to escape. The birds also need lots of room, so the moisture doesn’t build up. If you are convinced the birds need to huddle together to stay warm, you can section off part of the coop and let them choose when they want to stick close.

So how cold is too cold in your chicken coop? As usual, the answer is “it depends.” There are no hard and fast rules. Sometimes–most of the time–you have to go with your gut. But informed decisions are best, so…

Here’s what you can do to protect your flock :

1) Check your breed. Do some research on the different breeds to determine if your babies are suited for your climate. You may find they are heartier than you thought.

2) Take advantage of natural heating elements: Windows, dirt floors, any item with a large thermal mass will absorb heat during the day and radiate it at night.

3) Keep the coop well-ventilated to allow moisture to escape. Use a hygrometer, if you’re unsure of humidity levels.

4) Take advantage of a good chicken coop design: If you’re lucky enough to have windows on different sides of the house, or better yet you have a mobile chicken coop, shut up the upwind side and open the downwind side. This way the birds are protected from drafts, but still have enough ventilation to keep humidity low.

5) Clean the droppings regularly: When you allow litter to accumulate, extra moisture builds up. Again, a good chicken coop design will make it easy to clean daily–keeping your birds breathing better air.

6) Keep an eye on your flock: Your best measure of how your birds are coping with the weather is how they look. Are they active and happy? Or lethargic and sickly looking? Are they laying as they should?

Remember, just because you’re cold doesn’t mean they are. If you pay attention, chickens will tell you when they’re not comfortable.

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